The Top 5 Rules for Safe and Reliable Trad Gear Placement

Are you wondering how to determine if your trad gear is secure without taking a risky fall? We've got you covered with these five essential guidelines for dependable trad gear placements.

1. Align Trad Gear with the Direction of Pull
   Make sure your gear placement accounts for the direction of pull during a fall. For instance, if the gear is only secure when pulled upwards and you're likely to fall downwards, it might not hold. This concept becomes more complex when considering horizontal cracks on traversing routes. Ensure that the gear placement in horizontal cracks aligns with your climbing direction to prevent dislodging due to rope tension or a fall.

2. Assess the Rock Quality
   The rock quality is crucial for effective gear placement. Examine the crack and the surrounding rock to ensure it is solid and free of hairline fractures. Poor rock quality may cause your gear to fail, even if you place it correctly. Avoid using loose flakes as protection, as they might jeopardize both your safety and that of your belayer.

3. Maximize Surface Area Contact
   Aim for maximum surface area contact between your gear (nuts, hexes, or cam lobes) and the crack. Placing gear in constrictions allows for better hold and reduced movement. However, the constriction alone is not sufficient; ensure that the gear has proper contact with the rock for optimal stability.

4. Size Matters, But Not Always
   Although larger gear pieces are generally stronger, prioritize surface area contact over size. If you have a choice between a smaller piece with 100% surface area contact and a larger piece with 70% contact, choose the smaller one. However, if both pieces have similar surface area contact and are placed in a high-quality crack, opt for the larger piece.

5. Go Deeper for Better Placement
   Deeper gear placements are typically more secure, as long as they don't compromise surface area contact. This is particularly relevant for cams in uniform or parallel cracks. Placing a cam deeper in a crack can offer greater security, but ensure it's not too deep for your climbing partner to release the trigger.

While some climbers use scoring systems to evaluate gear placements, they can be misleading if not fully understood. A piece that scores poorly on the direction of pull but well on other points may still fail during a fall.

These tips should help you improve your trad gear placements and enhance your overall climbing experience. For professional rock climbing instruction, consider Crux Outdoors, a company dedicated to helping climbers hone their skills and safely enjoy the great outdoors.